Lawrence Durrell in North Cyprus: The Writer Who Made Bellapais Famous

Few foreign writers have left such a lasting mark on North Cyprus as Lawrence Durrell. Although he lived on the island for only a few years during the 1950s, his book Bitter Lemons of Cyprus immortalised the village of Bellapais and introduced generations of readers to the beauty, charm and complexities of Cyprus. Today, visitors from around the world still come to Bellapais to walk the same narrow streets, sit beneath the famous Tree of Idleness, and see the house where Durrell lived and wrote. His influence on the tourism and literary heritage of North Cyprus remains significant more than seventy years later.

Who Was Lawrence Durrell?

Lawrence Durrell (1912–1990) was a British novelist, poet, travel writer and dramatist. He is best known for writing The Alexandria Quartet, one of the most acclaimed literary works of the twentieth century. Durrell spent much of his life living around the Mediterranean, including periods in Greece, Egypt, Rhodes, France and Cyprus. In 1953, seeking a peaceful environment in which to write, he moved to Cyprus and eventually settled in Bellapais, a small village overlooking the coast above Girne.

Why Did Durrell Move to Cyprus?

After working for the British Council and the Foreign Office abroad, Durrell wanted to devote himself fully to writing. He was attracted by Cyprus's climate, scenery and Mediterranean lifestyle. When he arrived on the island in 1953, Cyprus was still a British colony. Initially he intended simply to enjoy village life and focus on his literary work. He soon fell in love with Bellapais and purchased a traditional village house there.

Bellapais – Durrell's Village

The village of Bellapais became central to Durrell's Cyprus experience. Nestled in the foothills of the Five Finger Mountains, Bellapais offered spectacular views across the Mediterranean Sea and the historic Bellapais Abbey. Durrell was captivated by the village's atmosphere and often described its relaxed pace of life and colourful local characters. Even today, visitors often remark how little the village appears to have changed since Durrell's time.

The Famous House

Durrell's Bellapais home became almost as famous as the author himself. The traditional village house featured prominently in Bitter Lemons. He described the process of buying it, negotiating with local villagers despite language barriers, and transforming it into a comfortable writer's retreat. The house remains one of Bellapais's most recognisable landmarks and has attracted literary tourists for decades. It has changed ownership several times and has periodically been offered for sale, generating international media attention because of its connection to Durrell.

Bitter Lemons of Cyprus - The Book That Made Bellapais Famous

Published in 1957, Bitter Lemons of Cyprusis Durrell's autobiographical account of his years on the island between 1953 and 1956. The book combines:

• Travel writing

• Memoir

• Political observation

• Character studies

• Humorous anecdotes

It begins as a charming account of village life but gradually becomes darker as political tensions increase across Cyprus during the struggle against British colonial rule. The book won the prestigious Duff Cooper Prize and remains one of the most important literary works ever written about Cyprus.

The Cyprus Emergency

Durrell arrived during a period of relative calm. However, his stay coincided with the emergence of the EOKA campaign against British rule. The political unrest and violence that followed dramatically changed life on the island. Durrell initially worked as a teacher before later accepting a role connected with the British administration. As tensions increased, many of his friendships became strained by the political divisions emerging across Cyprus. Eventually the deteriorating situation forced him to leave the island. His account provides a valuable first-hand perspective on one of the most significant periods in Cypriot history.

The Tree of Idleness

One of the most famous landmarks associated with Durrell is the "Tree of Idleness." Located near Bellapais Abbey, the tree was described in Bitter Lemons as a place where work and ambition seemed to disappear beneath its shade. According to local folklore, anyone who sits beneath the tree becomes too lazy to work. Durrell used the story to illustrate the relaxed pace of village life in Bellapais. Today the tree remains a popular attraction for visitors.

Lawrence Durrell and Bellapais Abbey

The magnificent Bellapais Abbey frequently appears throughout Durrell's writings. Built during the 13th century by Augustinian monks, the abbey dominates the village skyline and provides one of the most iconic views in North Cyprus. Durrell often wrote about the abbey's peaceful atmosphere, ancient stones and dramatic setting. His descriptions helped transform Bellapais from a little-known mountain village into one of Cyprus's most famous destinations.

Lawrence Durrell's Legacy in North Cyprus

Today, Lawrence Durrell's legacy is visible throughout Bellapais.

Visitors can:

• Visit the village he made famous.

• See the house where he lived.

• Sit beneath the Tree of Idleness.

• Explore Bellapais Abbey.

• Follow walking routes associated with Bitter Lemons.

• Experience many of the views and landscapes described in his      writings.

His work remains one of the strongest literary endorsements of North Cyprus ever written.

Why Lawrence Durrell Still Matters

For many readers, Durrell captured a version of Cyprus that has largely disappeared elsewhere around the Mediterranean. His descriptions of village life, hospitality, landscapes and local traditions preserve a snapshot of Cyprus during a transformative period in its history. For North Cyprus, he provided something even more valuable: an international literary identity. Bellapais is known worldwide not only because of its abbey but because of the writer who lived there and shared its story with the world.

Frequently Asked Questions

Did Lawrence Durrell live in North Cyprus?

He lived in Bellapais between 1953 and 1956. At the time Cyprus was a British colony. Bellapais is now located in North Cyprus.

What book did Lawrence Durrell write about Cyprus?

His most famous Cyprus book is Bitter Lemons of Cyprus, published in 1957.

Can you visit Lawrence Durrell's house?

The house can be viewed from outside and occasionally opens for special visits, depending on ownership arrangements.

Where is the Tree of Idleness?

The Tree of Idleness is located near Bellapais Abbey and remains one of the village's most famous attractions.

Why is Bellapais associated with Lawrence Durrell?

Because he lived there and immortalised the village in Bitter Lemons of Cyprus.