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Backgammon
Games, Local Culture
Backgammon (Tavla) in North Cyprus
Category: Traditional Games • Cultural Experiences • Cafés • Family Activities • Local Life
If there's one game that truly captures the spirit of North Cyprus, it's Backgammon, known locally as Tavla. More than just a board game, Tavla is part of everyday life and one of the island's oldest and most cherished traditions. From the bustling cafés of Kyrenia Harbour to quiet mountain villages, you'll find locals gathered around beautifully crafted wooden boards, rolling dice, sharing stories and enjoying endless cups of Turkish coffee or tea.
For visitors, joining a game of backgammon is one of the easiest and most enjoyable ways to experience authentic Turkish Cypriot culture.
What is Tavla?
Tavla is the Turkish version of Backgammon, one of the world's oldest board games, with origins dating back more than 5,000 years to ancient Mesopotamia.
The game eventually spread throughout the Mediterranean and became deeply rooted in Cypriot culture, where it has been enjoyed for centuries by people of all ages. Today, Tavla remains one of the most popular social activities in North Cyprus.
More Than Just a Game
In North Cyprus, backgammon is about friendship as much as competition.
A typical afternoon might include:
Traditional black tea
Friendly conversation
Good-natured teasing
Laughter
Hours of relaxed competition
Many locals have been playing since childhood, learning from parents and grandparents. The game has become an important tradition that connects generations and brings communities together.
Where You'll See People Playing
One of the pleasures of travelling around North Cyprus is how often you'll come across games in progress.
Popular places include:
Village Coffee Houses (Kahvehane)
Traditional coffee houses remain the heart of village life. Here you'll often find groups of local men enjoying coffee, discussing the day's events and playing several games of Tavla. Visitors are generally welcomed warmly, especially if they show an interest in learning the game.
Many cafés around the historic harbour keep backgammon boards available for customers.
It's the perfect setting to enjoy:
A sea view
Turkish coffee
Fresh lemonade
A relaxing game in the Mediterranean sunshine
Watching experienced local players can be almost as entertaining as playing yourself.
Beach Bars & Resorts
Many hotels, beach clubs and resort lounges provide backgammon boards for guests.
It's common to spend an hour or two playing after lunch or while watching the sunset.
Learning the Game
Although backgammon has strategic depth, the basic rules are surprisingly easy to learn.
A beginner can usually understand:
The board layout
How the dice work
Moving the counters
Capturing opponents' pieces
Bearing off
Winning the game
...within around 20–30 minutes.
Mastering strategy, however, can take years.
Local Playing Style
North Cypriot players are known for playing quickly and confidently.
You'll notice:
Dice rolled with a satisfying "clack"
Fast decision-making
Friendly banter
Plenty of laughter
Competitive but welcoming games
Winning is celebrated, but good humour is considered just as important.
Is Gambling Involved?
In cafés and coffee houses, backgammon is usually played purely for enjoyment.
Sometimes friends may play for:
A cup of coffee
Lunch
Bragging rights
Small friendly wagers
For visitors, games are almost always social rather than serious gambling.
Can Tourists Play?
Absolutely.
Many locals enjoy introducing visitors to Tavla.
Even if you don't speak Turkish, the game itself becomes a shared language.
Don't be surprised if someone offers to teach you after seeing your interest.
Why It's Part of Everyday Life
Unlike many countries where board games are reserved for home, Tavla is played everywhere.
You'll see games:
Outside cafés
In village squares
At marinas
On hotel terraces
In parks
At beach cafés
For many Turkish Cypriots, it's simply part of the daily routine.
Buying a Backgammon Board
North Cyprus is an excellent place to buy a traditional backgammon board.
You'll find them in:
Souvenir shops
Craft markets
Artisan workshops
Gift shops
Some supermarkets
Boards range from inexpensive travel versions to beautifully handcrafted wooden sets with intricate inlaid designs.
Many make excellent souvenirs that you'll continue using long after your holiday.
Tournaments
Backgammon competitions are occasionally held across North Cyprus.
These include:
Local club competitions
Friendly café tournaments
International invitation events
If you're visiting for an extended stay, keep an eye on local event listings—you may even have the opportunity to join in.
Best Places to Experience Tavla
Some of the best locations include:
Traditional village cafés throughout the island
In smaller villages you'll often enjoy a more authentic experience than in busy tourist areas.
Coffee & Backgammon
Backgammon and coffee are almost inseparable in North Cyprus.
The traditional combination is:
☕ Turkish (Cypriot) coffee
🎲 Tavla
💬 Conversation
Many games last longer than the coffee itself, with players ordering several cups while they play. Fortune-telling from the coffee grounds is another long-standing tradition that sometimes follows the game.
Family Activity
Backgammon is suitable for almost everyone.
Children can learn the basics from around 7–8 years old, while older players often continue enjoying the game well into their later years.
It's one of the few activities where grandparents, parents and children can all compete on equal terms.
Best Time to Play
Backgammon can be enjoyed throughout the year.
Many locals prefer:
Spring & Autumn
Outdoor cafés
Pleasant temperatures
Long afternoons
Summer
Early mornings
Evenings after sunset
Beachfront cafés
Winter
Cosy indoor coffee houses
Traditional village cafés
Hotel lounges
Who Is It Best For?
Couples
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
A relaxed and authentic way to spend an afternoon together.
Families
⭐⭐⭐⭐☆
Easy to learn and enjoyable for all ages.
Solo Travellers
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
One of the easiest ways to meet local people and strike up conversations.
Culture Lovers
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Backgammon is woven into everyday Turkish Cypriot life and offers a genuine insight into local traditions.
Top Tips
Don't worry if you've never played before—most locals are happy to explain the rules.
Order a Turkish coffee or tea to complete the experience.
Watch a few games before joining in to get a feel for the pace.
Buy a locally made wooden board as a practical souvenir.
Remember that the social experience is just as important as winning.
Why Try Backgammon in North Cyprus?
Few activities offer such an authentic glimpse into the everyday life of North Cyprus. Backgammon isn't simply a game—it's a tradition that brings together friends, families and strangers over coffee, conversation and friendly competition.
Whether you're sitting beside the sea in Kyrenia, relaxing in a mountain village or enjoying a quiet afternoon at a local café, a game of Tavla is a chance to slow down, connect with the culture and experience one of the island's most enduring traditions. Roll the dice, enjoy the atmosphere and don't be surprised if your first game turns into several more.
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